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A Tantalizing Array of Tastes

By Mary Kernan
For publication in the Lexington Minuteman
Publication Date: August 3, 2006  

     Initially you’re lured in by the elegant presentation and dazzling array of colors.  You see green and white and red, reminding you of the Italian flag (that is, if you know what the Italian flag looks like).  Neat little crackers lined up, covered with a variety of toppings, inviting you to try each one.  Even the little kids will nibble.  And sometimes they'll be chased away by Diane Manteca, the proprietor of Sassy River Sauces, after a few too many tastes and no parents in sight.  The flavors will dazzle you, from a simple Basil Pesto to the more sophisticated Moroccan Charmoula Chickpea sauce.  All are low in fat and high in taste.  You can’t help but sample your way across the table, unable to decide which you like best.

     Manteca started Sassy River as a natural extension of her own culinary career.  She’s been a chef for more than 20 years, eight of those at the helm of the Brickyard Café in Cambridge .  Her first love is the sauces.  As a chef, Manteca has always had to watch her weight and is sympathetic to the plight of dieters staring at yet another plate of steamed vegetables or broiled chicken breast, bored with the same flavors yet not knowing how to do anything more interesting.  The intent behind the development of these tasty sauces has been finding ways to enhance foods without adding too many calories.  “I wanted to come up with an easy way to make things taste better,” says Manteca , and a new enterprise took shape.

     Manteca decided early on that she wanted her culinary creations to put forth an international flair.  Her personal penchant for ethnic foods is reflected in her offerings, ranging from Middle Eastern to Asian to Mediterranean .  Each sauce is fashioned with a specific cuisine in mind, with the creative process leading her through many variations before she’s finally satisfied with the results.

      In particular, Manteca has always enjoyed Thai food, and wanted to add a peanut sauce to add to her repertoire.  “I love Thai food”, she said, “but peanut sauces tend to be high in calories.   I needed to find some way to lower the fat content.”  Manteca hit upon the idea of adding tofu, and even found a low fat variety to further reduce the number of calories.  She also veered away from traditional Thai ingredients such as coconut milk, fish sauce and chiles as she knew these bold flavors weren’t for everyone.  “Instead of a Satay sauce, I was trying to create a flavorful peanut dipping sauce,” said Manteca .  Initially her tasters, a handful of willing friends and family, weren't completely wild about some of her efforts, thus Manteca went back to the drawing board several times before finding recipes that work.  “You have to keep your ego in check, and remember that it’s the food and not the chef that’s being critiqued,” said Manteca , who’s learned to smile sweetly when her best friends tell her they don’t like something she’s made.

     Each week, Manteca heads to Jamaica Plain's to Nuestra Culinary Ventures, a commercial kitchen available to small food service businesses.  Her production plan is carefully coordinated with her scheduled time in the kitchen, as well as commitments at Boston area markets and local retail stores.  At Nuestra, Manteca produces and packages her sauces for sale at area farmers’ markets including Lexington , Belmont and Boston .  After a successful first year with flavors such as Caribee Mango Lime Mustard and Provencal Olive Pesto, she’s added Smoked Tomato Tapanade, Tuscan Spinach and Artichoke and the Thai Peanut to her assortment of sauces.  All of these will stay fresh in the refrigerator for about three weeks – they freeze well, too.  Manteca is quick to point out that there are no preservatives or artificial ingredients used; her customers frequently comment on the wonderfully fresh taste.

         Using Manteca 's sauces couldn’t be simpler.  They’re great as dips for vegetables, spreads for sandwiches or toppings for grilled meats.  “With a minimum of fuss, you can quickly turn dinner or sandwiches into something more interesting,” says Manteca .  At the farmers’ markets, you can sample them on crisp rice crackers, which Manteca uses because they are gluten-free.  “I get them at Trader Joe’s,” she says, “and I sometimes feel like I’m selling as many crackers as sauces,” she adds with a chuckle.

       While the farmers’ markets are a terrific vehicle for selling her goods during the summer months, Manteca continues to search out retail outlets for the off season.  Because her operation is relatively small, she can’t yet produce the volume necessary to make working with larger retailers feasible.  She currently sells through small specialty shops including La Riviera and Busa Farms in Lexington , and The Vineyard in North Andover .  By selling at Boston area farmers’ markets, she hopes to catch the eye of a number of Boston 's gourmet shops in the near future.

    During the winter, you can find Manteca teaching cooking classes and running excursions to Italy for the Boston Center for Adult Education.  She also thrills some very fortunate clients with her culinary creations as a personal chef for Homemade Today on a regular basis, but her passion remains with her sauces!

     You can try any of the Sassy River Sauces at the Lexington Farmers’ Market, held every Tuesday from 2:00 – 6:30 (rain or shine) at the corner of Massachusetts and Fletcher Aves.

 XXX

 Mary Kernan is the Chef/Owner of Homemade Today Personal Chef service.  She can be reached at mary@homemadetoday.com .

 

 

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