River Rock Farm – What Makes the Beef So Special?

Lexington Minuteman - July 6, 2006 - By Ann Kane & Lee Duhl

Each week at the market you'll see Jon Konove under the River Rock Farm tent, behind him a number of large, carefully packed coolers filled with some of the most wonderful beef you'll ever taste.  It is no wonder he typically returns to Brimfield at the end of day with a load far lighter than upon his arrival.

 Jon's family purchased River Rock Farm about fifteen years ago. Initially he attended college classes focusing on Biology, intending eventually to continue on to become a veterinarian.  Rather than to jump right into it, however, he took time off following college to work on the farm.  He enjoyed it so much that he decided to stick around to grow the business, foregoing a return to school.

And the rest is history.  Over the past ten years, River Rock has become a primary purveyor of high quality, aged beef to restaurants, specialty shops and a number of farmers' markets in the Boston area.

All River Rock meats are produced right on the farm.  The Konove family takes pride in the fact that their products are raised responsibly and sustainably right here in New England.  Great pains are taken to protect pasture lands and nearby ponds and rivers from field runoff, preventing erosion from water and wind.  Only natural weed control measures and fertilizers are used.  The cattle are raised completely free of growth hormones, animal by-products or antibiotics – they spend their entire lives on pasture.  In winter they are fed a combination of hay and a small amount of grain. Animals to be used strictly for meat are fed extra grain - a special mix of corn and soybeans - in their final months.

Ultimately the meats are processed at a local facility where the small size of the operation supports careful attention to detail.  Because River Rock monitors the product from pasture to market, they are uniquely qualified to guarantee the quality of their meats.  This is what sets them apart from chain supermarkets, and even Whole Foods, who are hard pressed to claim they can follow the entire process from end to end.

Nowadays most chain grocery stores offer some sort of natural beef, typically at a higher price point than what is raised conventionally.  What differentiates River Rock beef from other vendors' is that it is dry aged, which is a very costly process.  Dry aging is the traditional method of hanging sides of beef in a walk-in refrigerator, allowing the meat to break down and water to evaporate from it, thus producing a tender texture with a richer flavor.  Beef is aged by storing it unwrapped under refrigeration for a number of days.  This process is conducted in USDA-inspected coolers, under the supervision of experienced butchers and a USDA inspector. As it ages, natural enzymes are released, helping to break down connective tissue in the meat, producing a more tender outcome.  As moisture leaves, the flavor of the meat is concentrated.  Every cut of beef that River Rock sells has been aged for 14 to 28 days before you'll find it at a market or restaurant.  Any true beef lover will attest that the higher cost of the end product is well worth it.

Today, mainly due to space limitation and lack of experience with the aging process, few retail outlets and restaurants can offer it.  Unless a label specifically indicates that a meat has been aged, assume that it has not been.  At one time most small butchers aged their beef, but now only a handful of specialty shops and some upscale establishments actually offer dry, aged meat.

River Rock offers home delivery at no cost, year-round throughout the Boston area for orders of at least $50 dollars.  Their wonderful cuts are also available at farmers' markets in Davis Square, Brookline, Harvard Square, Newton and Marblehead.  Lionette's Market and The Butcher Shop, both on Tremont Street in the South End, carry River Rock products as well.

When asked what the best selections for summer eating are, Jon extols the virtues of River Rock's ground beef for great burgers.  He also recommends the Tri-Tip and Flat-Iron steak as extraordinary for the grill.  Both are large cuts that can be sliced after cooking to serve a family or dinner party.

Resident LFM Chef Liza Connolly has shared with us her recipe for a cool, yet hearty summer salad, featured on the Recipes page of this website... Enjoy!

Asian Flat-Iron Steak Salad 

River Rock Farm
81 Five Bridge Road
Brimfield, MA 01010
Telephone: (413) 245-0249

http://www.riverrockfarm.com/